Moroccan Handicrafts Tour

Morocco’s Traditional Ceramic Crafts: Pottery and Zellige Tilework Tour

 

Morocco is a gem of breathtaking landscapes, lively colors, and astonishing variety, all of which comes through in its art. Moroccan handicrafts are as varied and exceptional as the country itself. Traditional artisans still ply their trade in small workshops and community cooperatives.

Blending Arab, Berber, Jewish and Andalusian traditions, the ancestral know-how of Moroccan artisans has been praised for centuries. In every Moroccan medina you encounter shops of textiles, spices, wood furniture, rugs, and jewelry. Morocco has been known for centuries for its craftsmen, sell leather goods and carpets, shoes, and even spices of the highest quality.

 There are authentic treasures of handicrafts throughout the country. Morocco’s souks and bazaars hold many workshops that are worth visiting.

 

Morocco’s Traditional Ceramic Crafts: Pottery and Zellige Tilework Tour

Fes is considered the center of excellence for many of Morocco’s best-known handicrafts. From the craftsmanship of silver teapots and trays, leather, copper and embroidery to ceramic crafts both as pottery and ‘zellige’ (handmade Moroccan tile).

Visit the medina of Fes and explore each specialty in individual souks. Continue to Ain Nokbi, just outside the medina of Fes and near the southern ramparts and visit to the pottery district. There are several pottery co-operatives there, highlighting the art of Moroccan pottery through workshops, apprenticeship centers and showrooms of finished products.  

Take a tour of the Pottery Village in Fes and discover the entire process of the craft of Moroccan pottery and zellige.  

Take part in a workshop of Fassi Pottery characterized by its refined and typical blue and white geometric designs

The most prized pottery in Morocco comes from Fes.  While the most common type of clay is earthenware, Fassi pottery is crafted from fine, light-colored stoneware clay. Only the most traditional methods are used to throw pottery in Ain Nokbi.  Fassi pottery is shaped by hand, the pottery wheel is turned by foot for complete control, and a fine thread or piece of wire is used to cut the shape from the wheel.  Once the desired shape has been formed, it is set out in the sun to dry.

 

 

Raw clay drying in the Moroccan sun before getting fired in the traditional kilns of Ain Nokbi, Fes, Morocco.

Moroccan craftsmen use fine horsehair brushes to paint geometric designs on the pottery.  Though available in a variety of colors, the most traditional Fassi pottery is easily recognizable by its cobalt blue and white designs.  Pottery from Fes is still fired in traditional kilns which are primarily fueled by ground olive pits, a by-product of the olive oil industry in Morocco. Olive pits allow for an extremely hot yet “clean” burn and are also an economical and ecologically-friendly alternative fuel source.  Stoneware clay can be fired at a high temperature, resulting in a light grey and durable, non-porous finished product.  This makes it the ideal clay for products for home use, such as vases, plates, jars, tagines, mugs, bowls and ashtrays.  Other popular finished products from the Potters’ Quarter in Fes include mirrors, chargers, oil diffusers, candlestick holders and egg cups.  Along with the paint and glaze work, traditional pottery from Fes is virtually scratch-resistant. 

Zellige: the art of handmade Moroccan tile

Inspired by Roman and Byzantine mosaics, Moroccan zellige first made its appearance in the 10th century and evolved during the Merenid Dynasty.  Originally used to illustrate luxury and sophistication in the homes of wealthy art patrons, zellige tilework remains the hallmark of Moroccan architecture and design.  Zellige craftsmanship can be found gracing floors, walls, columns, staircases, fountains, hammams and swimming pools throughout Morocco: not only in historical palaces such as Dar Batha in Fes, Bahia Palace in Marrakech, and the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail in Meknes, but also in more modern structures such as riads and restaurants.  Zellige is a key design element in the Hassan II mosque in Casablanca.

The first step for any Moroccan mosaic tilework is to mold and calibrate the square tiles, using the same fine stoneware clay as for Fassi pottery by tiles.  Each zellige square is then glazed of a single color and fired according to a specific temperature for each hue. Once the zellige tiles are fired and cooled, they are ready to be shaped and cut by hand.  This is a unique characteristic of Moroccan tiles and a shining example of Moroccan craftsmanship:  shapes are cut out of hard tiles, rather than being molded in the desired shapes before being fired.  More often than not, it is the apprentices who ”cut” zellige tiles by quickly tracing a model piece of zellige onto the tile, and then chipping away the extra.  A steady and careful touch is needed to chisel out the individual pieces of zellige; the size and weight of the tool is disproportionate to the width of the tile and ultimately, the delicacy of each small shape which emerges.  Each craftsman will make his specific shape from the tile, from which the expert craftsmen will ultimately create their masterpieces.

 

Geometric zellige designs are carefully chipped away by hand – a coffee break is always welcomed! (photo courtesy of Christopher Pogue)

In the case of free-standing Moroccan tilework, such as tabletops or fountains, these are created face-down.   The Moroccan artisan takes piece by piece of each design element, then “glues’ them into place. In this case, the “glue” is actually “Black soap”, also known by its French name, “savon noir” or “savon bildi”, another by-product of the olive oil industry in Morocco. After all of the zellige are in place, cement is poured over the back, and once dry, the piece is turned over to discover the beauty. 

 

Master craftsman laying out tile upside down for traditional Moroccan zellige tabletop (photo courtesy of Christopher Pogue)

 

Once the backing of the zellige tabletop has dried, it is carefuly turned over to reveal its beauty. (photo courtesy of Christopher Pogue)

Moroccan zellige tiles are not only sturdy but also water and oil-resistant.  This makes them an ideal material for both indoor and outdoor use, such as tiled tabletops, plunge pools, staircase steps, fountains and fireplaces, along with the more traditional use of zellige as wall coverings or floor work.  Once you see the process of the traditional Moroccan craft of zellige, you cannot help to be in awe of the splendor and intricacy of Moroccan design.

 

 

 

 

 

Wood Carving – This is where Essaouira truly shines. While wood carvers ply their trade throughout Morocco, there is something special to be said about the twuia wood found only on the south coast, and locals have been making good use of it for centuries. From larger chess boards and plates, to small boxes and children’s toys, sculptors have perfected the technique of drawing the beautiful from the seemingly mundane, and few visitors leave without at least a small trinket to remind them of the relaxed Moroccan sea coast.

Pottery – Moroccan pottery can vary wildly from place to place, but a few cities have truly put their mark on the ceramics trade. Safi is perhaps the most notable ceramic city, with large markets dedicated to their sale as well as a wide variety of shops and styles. Safi also offers a more relaxed atmosphere for shopping, and since the pottery is made onsite, you’re often dealing with the very men who created the plate in your hands. Outside Zagora, Tamegroute is known for its unique green-glaze pottery.

All this is to say nothing of the natural oils and dyes, knitwear, cooking supplies, tapestry, leather and innumerable other finds you’ll come across as you wander through the souks. Like so much in Morocco, you’ll get the most from your market day with an open mind and a little curiosity. Be prepared to take your time, and be open to whatever strikes your fancy!